Guitars & Accessories FAQs

Guitar Types:

Common guitar accessories:

• Guitar case.
  
  A hard‑shell case (wood, vinyl or other hard‑sided material) is highly-recommended, especially in colder, radically changeable climates like Minnesota. The combination of humidity and temperature fluctuations can cause weather-checking (cracking of the guitar's finish) or worse yet, cracks in the body or joints. Softshell (cardboard) cases don't protect guitars very well mechanically, or from temperature or humidity changes.  If you have a softshell case, wrap a towel or small blanket around the body before putting in case, especially in winter.  This will help moderate the change from the cold dry outside to the warm humid inside.  
  
  Soft‑sided cases (insulated bags) are cheaper than hard-shell, and protect reasonably well against weather, but not physical abuse or stress. It's an economical alternative to a hard-shell case, but be careful not to put other equipment or items on top of it.

• Guitar humidifier
  
  In Minnesota, this is a must.  The ideal humidity level for your guitar is between 45‑55% relative humidity. Many popular humidifiers are designed to hang inside an acoustic guitar.  The Dampit features a perforated surgical rubber tube with a spongy interior. The Planet Waves GH (for Guitar Humidifier) is a more substantial sponge inside a plastic core made to either hang inside the sound hole, or rest in the guitar case storage compartment. The Oasis OH Series uses a special gel which holds up to 500 times its weight in water.  Humidifier models range from $5-20.
  
  

• Electronic tuner
  
  There are many quality, inexpensive ($8-20) models to choose from these days, and a variety of features to consider. I can recommend models that suit your specific needs and guitar type. Some contemporary models are very tiny.
  
  A tuning fork can be useful to keep in your case pouch, in the event that your tuner's batteries die. I highly recommend the E‑329 fork for guitar, rather than an A-440.  
  
  Pitch pipes are completely useless. After decades of playing music, I still have never heard an in-tune pitch pipe. It's the reeds; small changes in temperature and humidity put them out of tune.
  
  

• Flatpicks
  
  Medium is the best gauge (pick may be labeled Med or M). If the pick designation is millimeters of thickness, get something between .68mm and .88mm. Fender mediums (.71mm) are perfect.   Some models are embossed (textured) to help maintain grip and pick orientation.
  
  Thinner picks have numerous disadvantages. Your dynamic range remains low (can't play very loud notes or chords). Your tempo will be quite limited (slow to moderate at best), due to the fact that your flacid pick doesn't return to its normal state before picking the next stroke in the opposite direction. Also, thinner picks create a lot of "string noise" relative to the actual guitar note or chord.
  
  Professional guitarists use a medium or heavy flat pick, and many gravitate to heavier gauges as their skill level increases over the years, as the resiliency of their grip becomes more fine-tuned.   The only pro guitar player I know that have ever used a thinner pick, was for a specialized rhythm track (thwacka-thwacka) that benefitted from percussive string noise.
  
  

• Extra set(s) of strings
  
  You'll want to carry an extra set of strings in your guitar case. Breaking a string is a rare occurrence (first string / high E is most likely to break) unless your guitar tuners have a specific flaw associated with a cheap guitar. But if a string does break, or its winding fails (wound strings are typically 4, 5 and 6), or you are out and about and need fresh strings (no guitar store nearby), you're covered!
  
  Tip: When you change strings, save the old set to replace new ones that might break. A string from the previously-installed set will be broken in (no stretching required), and will likely have a much closer timbre and tone to your currently installed strings than a brand new one would. Also, you don't have to break up a new set to get that replacement.
  
  
• Capo        

• Shubb and Kyser are easy, durable and keep your guitar in-tune both when you put them on and take them off ‑ you'll regret anything else. I'm partial to Shubb, but both models work well.  Avoid anything with elastic. You'll have to re-tune your guitar when you put them on, and again when you take them off - very frustrating, and terminal if you're performing.  Not to mention, the elastic wears out rather quickly. Drop a few more bucks and get the real thing.
  
  
• Guitar polish and soft rag
  
  
• String cutter (a small diagonal cutter works well)
  
  
• Electric players:
  
  
• Extra guitar cord  (Don't be caught without this - a cord will fail at the worst possible time!)
  
  Don't buy the cheapest cords. They won't last long, and generate more hiss and hum due to poor internal shielding.
  
  
• Small (#0) phillips screwdriver to gain access to electronics
  
  
• Allen wrench to adjust bridge and saddles

Guitar Strings:

• The gauge of individual strings in sets by different manufacturers may vary.  One brand may be "lighter" than another.  Judge by individual string gauges listed on packages.  Some brands have alternative names for generic gauges (i.e. Ernie Ball calls lights "slinky").  Experiment with brands.  My personal preference:  D'Addario
  
  
• Material and gauge does not affect the price much. Stainless steel strings are expensive.
  
  
• Changing string gauges may require truss rod or action adjustments.  Lighter strings have less tension than medium gauge.
  
  
• There is a significant price break when you purchase 6 or more sets at a time.  I can recommend e-tailors with very good prices. Idea: You could split an order with a friend.
  
  
• Interval between string changes:  A player's skin chemistry is the most significant determiner of how quickly strings go dead or become difficult to tune.  Generally, change your strings every 3-6 months. If you are a performing guitarist, it usually requires changing them more often. Depending on your skin chemistry and frequency of performances, it may be weekly or even more often. Interestingly enough, factors that favor more infrequent string changes include getting older and eating less meat. If your hands sweat a lot, wash them before playing.
  
  

For acoustic steel‑string

Material: Strings 1‑2 are steel.  Strings 3‑6 have steel or silk cores wound with brass (bright), bronze or phosphor bronze (last longer).  My personal preference is phosphor bronze, as the tone is well-balanced, and they last a long time.

Gauge:    Light ‑ easier to play and bend, sweeter treble

Medium ‑ louder overall, somewhat richer bass, usually last longer

Heavy ‑ don't buy; they're hard on guitars and void most guitar warranties

For nylon string

Material:  Strings 1‑3 are a single, solid, nylon strand.  Strings 4‑6 are multi-stranded nylon with a metal alloy winding around the strands.  These look like steel strings, but they are not. Don't ever put steel strings on a nylon string guitar - they will literally destroy it!

Gauge:    Normal tension and hard tension (also called high tension)

For electric

Material:  Strings *1‑3 are a single wire.  Strings 4‑6 are a wire core wound with a nickel or stainless steel winding. Nickel has magnetic properties necessary for use with pickups.

Gauge:    Extra Light -    Terrible intonation, thin sound, break easily . . . but super easy to bend and play.  I do not recommend extra light strings for any type of playing.

Light ‑ easy to play, easy to bend, good tone balance with a wound 3rd string

Medium ‑ louder (acoustically), rich bass, last longer, are harder to bend

*Note: Electric sets can be purchased with a wound 3rd string.  I hugely prefer wound 3rd strings these because the string stays in tune much better (acoustic guitar 3rd strings are always wound), has a richer tone, eliminates the twangy quality of an unwound 3rd string, and has a better timbral match to adjacent strings.

Guitar Do's and Don'ts:

• Don't let your guitar freeze. This can cause woods to crack and joints to separate. If your guitar does freeze or gets very cold, be sure to leave it in its case for at least 20 minutes before opening it.
  
  
• Don't leave your guitar in the car or trunk in warm weather, or in a sunny window in your home.  Excessive heat can cause woods to crack and joints to open.
  
  
• Do use a guitar humidifier in winter, approximately November ‑ March. Excessive dryness is a major factor in weather checking of the finish or wood cracks. The ideal humidity level for your guitar is between 45‑55% relative humidity.
  
  
• Do polish your guitar once in a while. Use a polish made for guitars and follow the instructions.
  
  
• Don't put steel strings on a nylon‑string guitar . . . ever!